I decided to start doing another cardigan for my DD in Tunisian, and it turned out well enough to make into a pattern!

It’s a pretty simple top down, raglan sleeve cardigan, and I did Tunisian Cluster Stitch for the skirt. Which, I found out, slanted like nobody’s business when I got done!! I really recommend blocking if this happens to you. I did steam blocking and that has worked best for me so far, as opposed to wet blocking.

This is after leaving it overnight..you can still see that it’s a bit wavy. May have to block again, since they’re supposed to be straight rows of clusters! Oh well. Still cute! Size is for a 2T.

I’m thinking this would be easier on a cabled tunisian hook, but I did just fine with a very long one. The sleeves are also worked flat, which may seem odd at first (and the first 2 rows are wonky) but it makes them easy, honest! I stitched them up using a sort of mattress stitch.

Note-If you keep every last stitch of your forward pass a tunisian knit stitch instead of tunisian simple stitch, it’ll make sewing/attaching edging a LOT easier for you!

Blocking..blocking…

Materials:

K tunisian hook-Mine was a 14″ hook

I hook-regular

F hook-regular

2 skeins of Vanna’s Choice (DD destroyed labels a while ago…I don’t know what is with her and labels!) or similar heavy worsted weight

Small bit of contrasting for rose, though that’s optional of course

TSS-tunisian simple stitch

TCLST-tunisian cluster stitch-this one is worked on your return pass-I explain briefly in the pattern how to do it, but next stitch has a good video of it if you need a visual! http://www.nexstitch.com/v_tcls.html Just remember I start off my return row with a yo and pull thru 3 loops, instead of the 2 they use in the video

Inc-to increase, insert hook into next horizontal bar, yo and pull up a loop. So on the increase for the raglan shaping, you’ll increase in the horizontal bar before the next tss st, then do a tss, then increase in the horizontal bar after your tss st.

With K hook, ch 36

work foundation row

row 1: tss in first 5 sts, [inc, tss, inc] in next st, tss in next 4 sts [inc, tss, inc], 
tss in next 12 sts, [inc, tss, inc],  tss in next 4 sts, [inc, tss, inc], tss in next 5 sts, tks in last st

work return pass

rows 2-11 : repeat row 1, working [ ] in center tss st of last [ ]

ROW 12: Tss to center st of last [ ], skip over sts to next center st of last [ ], tss in this st
(one sleeve made), tss across back to next center st of [ ], skip over sts to next center
st of [ ], tss in this st, tss to end (sleeves made!) Work return pass

rows 13-15 : tss across, work return pass.
Close up of tunisian cluster stitch-You'll work this next!

row 16: tss across, and on return pass:
yo and pull thru 3 loops (half cluster), {ch 3, yo and pull thru 5 loops} repeat { } across
to last 2 sts (3 loops on hook), ch 3, yo and pull thru last 3 loops.

row 17: tss across, but place sts in horizontal bars, and the top loop above the clusters-one st in
each of the 3 ch, and one in top of every cluster. Should end up with what you started with (73 sts in my case)
Work return pass as in row 16

repeat row 17 10

Next row: work as forward pass in row 17, but return as normal in stead of tclst

last row: work a bind off row in tps

break yarn, fasten off

Sleeves:

starting at underside of sleeve, pick up 28 sts around in tss. work return pass.

row 1: tss across, work return pass

row 2: tss to last 2 sts, tss2tog, return pass to last 2 sts (3 loops on hook), yo annd pull
thru 3 loops. 26 sts

repeat rows 1 and 2 once more- 24 sts

work even for 13 more rows.

last row: bind off in tps st. 

break yarn leaving long tail for sewing. sew up underside of sleeve

repeat for other sleeve


edging:
with I hook,
join yarn to bottom right front corner of skirt (on the tunisian cluster edge) with rs facing, and sc 25 sts up
skirt, then sl st up right front tss panel to corner of neck, then do a picot border 
around neck: [sc, ch 2, sl st in first ch, sl st in next st] repeat [ ] around neck, then sl st down
left front tss panel, then 25 sc down left side of skirt.

rose and tie

with f hook and pink yarn, ch 12 

3 dc in 3rd ch from hook, [sl st in next ch, 4 dc in next ch] repeat [ ] across.

break yarn leaving long tail for sewing

roll up rose and sew together. Sew onto front left panel.

for ties, with f hook and main color, attach to one top corner of collar, ch 43, sl st back down ch
thru back humps. repeat for other side

block piece

Please email me with any questions!

 

 

 

Well all, I have to admit that money is rather tight. And I don’t want to start charging for my patterns that I’ve already put up for free, so I decided to add a donations button to my page thru my paypal account.

I may start writing up patterns that are sized for more than one or two sizes that I may charge a small fee for, but I don’t feel comfortable charging for simple patterns in one size, you know? And I’d rather become a better pattern writer and starting making them into pdf files so that if I do charge they’ll be clearly written and downloadable. 🙂

So please feel free to donate! And as always thank you for looking at my blog. 🙂

Ok so I’ll probably be making itty baby hats for at least this month..hehe. They are just so cute and quick it’s hard not to make them!

I also wanted ones that are lightning quick to make, so a bigger hook it is!

K hook

I hook

Baby weight/sport weight yarn

ksc-knit single crochet (aka shallow single crochet) insert hook into lower v of st-not the top of the st like any normal crochet st.  Here’s a good video tut: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F9REQmrEraQ

Or see my ksc hat pattern on cloverchild 🙂

With k hook, make a magic loop and 10 sc into loop.

Round 1: 2 sc into each st around 20 sts

Round 2: ksc into each st around. 20 sts

Round 3: [ksc in first st, 2 ksc in next st] repeat [ ] around. 30 sts.

Round 4: ksc in each st around. 30 sts

Round 5: [ksc in first 2 sts, 2 ksc in next st] repeat [ ] around. 40 sts.

Rounds 6- 12: ksc around

Round 7: switch to I hook, sl st in top of next st, ch 2 (counts as first dc) dc in each st around in the same fashion as ksc-yo and insert hook into the lower part of the st, yo and pull up, yo and pull thru 2 sts twice. Repeat around, sl st to top of ch 2.

Rounds 8-13: ch 2 (counts as first dc) [bpdc around next st, fpdc around next] repeat [ ] around, sl st to top of ch 2.

Finish off, weave in ends.

Such cute hats!<3

Please ask me any questions you have!

So I have been working on some preemie items to donate to my friend, who is working hard for march of dimes next month. I decided to write up some patterns, and I thought it a good opportunity to practice my slip stitching.

G hook

H hook

Baby weight yarn

Sl St Dec-insert hook into next st, yo & pull up a loop, insert hook into next stitch, yo & pull through 3 loops on hook.

With G hook, ch 48, without twisting join in round to first ch.

Switch to H hook

Round 1: Sl st in back loop only in each ch around.

Rounds 2-23: sl st in front loop only in each ch around. Work only in front loops from here on out.

Round 24: [sl st in first 4 sts, sl st dec] repeat [] around. 40 sts

Round 25: [ sl st in first 3 sts, sl st dec] repeat [] around. 32 sts

Round 26: [sl st in first 2 sts, sl st dec] repeat [] around. 24 sts

Round 27: [sl st in first st, sl st dec] repeat [] around. 16 sts

Round 28: sl st dec around. 8 sts

Break yarn leaving long tail for sewing. Thread onto needle, then weave thru front loops only. Pull tightly to close.

Weave in ends.

Daughter’s baby is my model today. 🙂

I’ll add a newborn size next, then I plan on going up thru adult sizes, since it seems to make a nice comfy hat 🙂

I’ve recently been introduced to the possibilities of the slip stitch in crochet and have been messing around with it ever since. I made a shrug (which I plan on posting a pattern of as well) and made a hat as well.

It’s done all in slip stitches and sideways, with short rows. It makes for a nice stretchy and comfy hat!

My sis modeling for me.  It’s a looser hat, but I prefer it that way.

Make sure to keep a looser tension than you normally would, and be careful not to miss any stitches!

Caron simply soft-I used maybe half a skein

Size 7.5 hook

Ch 36,

Row 1: sl st in back loops only.

Row 2: ch 1, sl st in back loop only in next 30 sts,turn.

Row 3: sl st

Row 4: ch 1, turn. Sl st in next 25 sts, turn.

Row 5: sl st

Row 6: ch 1, sl st to end.

Row 7: sl st

Repeat rows 2-7 for pattern

I repeated rows 2-7 fifteen times total.

End with a row 6.

Break yarn leaving a long tail for sewing. Thread onto needle, draw top closed, and sew sides together. Weave in ends.

Sometimes you just think it’ll snow forever here. The weather has been perfectly horrid the past week, in an almost protest to spring.

Sigh.

It’s snowed here in June before so I don’t know why I’m surprised. I do wish the 50 mph wind would at least die down a bit. That’s getting particularly old. And every time I wake up and think ‘today I’ll start some seeds!’ it seems to snow..

So I decided to make myself a hat.

May as well keep warm and my hair less…foofy. I’d rather have slight hat hair than look like a bad chia pet.  I decided I’d knit this one too..it’s rather comfy, so at least I have some solace in a squishy stretchy hat while the weather has it’s tantrum.

Sums up my feelings on the weather.

Eternal Snow Slouchy Hat

Size 7 16” circular

Size 10 16” circular

WW yarn-bout 3 oz

 

With size 7 needle, cast on 88 sts, join and pm.

Work in twisted 1 x 1 rib until piece measures 2 in.

Switch to size 10 circular.

Continue working in twisted rib, until piece measures 6 in from beginning.

Next row: [work in the next 22 sts, pm] repeat 2 more times. Work in the last 22 sts.

Start decreases!

Row 1: k2tog, [work to 2 sts before marker, ssk, slip marker, k2tog] repeat [] around. End with ssk. 80 sts

Rows 2-3: Work even around.

Row 4: repeat row 1. 72 sts

Rows 5-6: work even around.

Row 7: repeat row 1. 64 sts

Row 8: work even around.

Repeat rows 7 and 8 until 24 sts left.

Work one more row 1, removing markers as you go.

Break yarn, leaving long tail. Thread onto needle and pull through remaining 14 sts. Fasten off.

I suppose this is technically reversible…not much difference between sides, but oh well! It’s nice and stretchy, so it’s very comforting when it’s supposed to be 50 degrees outside and it decided to blizzard.

So I’ll probably be posting quite a few Tunisian patterns on here while I beef up my Tunisian skills. Today I whipped up a hat for my daughter using Tunisian Puff Stitch-it’s worked basically the same as a regular crochet puff stitch. You can certainly make your puffs as big as you like, but I kept mine on the smaller side.

J hook-Tunisian hook

WW yarn

Size-toddler/small child

 

TPFS-Tunisian puff stitch-insert hook into st as if to do a tss, yo & pull up a loop, yo, insert hook into same st, yo & pull up a loop, yo & pull thru 3 loops.

TPFS DEC- insert hook into first st, yo & pull up a loop, yo, insert hook into next st, yo & pull up a loop, yo, insert hook into same st, yo & pull up a loop, yo & pull thru all 5 loops.

Close up of the stitch pattern.

Ch 50, pick up sts in back humps across ch. Work return pass.

Row 1: TPFS in first st and each across to last st, tks in last st. work return pass.

Repeat row 1 five more times.

Start decreases

Row 7: tpfs in first 2 sts, [tpfsdec, tpfs in next 3 sts] across to last 4 sts, tpfs in next 3, tks in last. Work return pass. 40 sts

Row 8: tpfsdec, [tpfs in next 2 sts, tpfsdec] across to last st, tks in last st. Work return pass. 30 sts.

Row 9: tpfs in first st, [tpfsdec in next st, tpfs in next st] across to last 2 sts, tpfs in next st, tks in last st. Work return pass. 21 sts

Row 10: tpfs dec across to last 2 sts, tpfs in next st, tks in last st. Work return pass. 12 sts.

Bind off in tss.

Break yarn, leaving long tail for sewing. Thread tail onto needle, sew top closed, then sew down sides. Weave in ends.

Make a puffball for the top in whichever way you like-I did mine with a strand of blue and white wrapped around my hand 25 ish times. Sew to top of hat. I used a wire pet brush to fluff it up.

 

 

Because I am so excited for my class tonight, I decided I needed to make a few more Tunisian projects to bring in to show what can be done with the technique. I also have been wanting to make my DD some cute summer items (despite the non-cooperative weather) so I thought a cute skirt was in order! I had some ‘denim’ look yarn leftover from a hat project, and thought that’d be perfect.

Very had to capture her in said skirt though. Not surprising.

It’s an easy piece, and works up fairly quickly. DD is 18 months, and on the petite side so I’d say this is a 12-18 month size skirty.

Skirty is unblocked in this pic. Just to show that this will curl, so blocking is a good idea.

D hook

H hook-Tunisian hook

WW Yarn

TSS-Tunisian Simple Stitch

TPS-Tunisian Purl Stitch

Skirt is worked by making the waistband first, then you pick up stitches along the edge with the Tunisian hook and work the skirt from the waist down.

Baby model is wearing a cloth diaper, which this barely fits over..so I may go up a hook on the next skirt. Fits much better over a conventional dipe.

TPS is used on the bottom ‘hem’ to help with curling, but I do recommend blocking this piece.

Waistband:

With D hook, ch 10, sc in 2^nd ch from hook and each across- 9 sts

Next row: ch 1, sc in back loop only in each st across.

Repeat this row 80 more times. Waistband made!

Switch to H hook, do not turn. You’ll work the skirt in Tunisian from here.

Pick up 42 sts across edge of waistband. Work a return row. 43 sts

Row 1: Tss across. Work a return pass. 43 sts

Row 2: Tss in first 2 sts, [inc, tss in next 3 sts] across to last 4 sts, tss in next 3, inc, tss in last st. Work return pass. 57 sts

Rows 3-4: Tss across. Work return pass.

Row 5: Tss in first 3 sts, [inc, tss in next 4 sts] across to last 5 sts, tss in next 4, inc, tss in last st. work return pass. 71 sts

Rows 6-29: Tss across. Work return pass.

Row 30: Bind off in tps

Break yarn, weave in ends.

Thread a length of yarn onto a sewing needle, and starting from the waistband, sew sides together, leaving about an inch open at the bottom (split ‘hem’)

Major curlage on the back side! This is still pre-blocking, so blocking will hopefully help.  I’ll post some pics after blocking.

Tonight is my first Tunisian Crochet Class! I’m so excited!

I have 12 people signed up too..and I know they had to cut it off, which makes me wonder how many people were interested. .

I’ll be doing basics behind it tonight, but we’ll be doing a dishcloth for practice. Exciting, I know, but it is practical. I wrote up a pattern for a dishcloth which is pretty basic, but gives you a few tips for Tunisian crochet. So, I think it is a good first project, and of course I’m making it available here. I may also do some picture tutorials on here, if I get the time to.

Note: having trouble uploading pics at the moment..more pics will be added soon!

1 ½ oz WW Cotton Yarn-Peaches n’ Creme or similar. I did not use the whole lil skein to make this.

Size H Afghan hook

Abbreviations:

TSS-Tunisian Simple Stitch

TKS-Tunisian Knit Stitch

YO-Yarn Over

CH-Chain

BO-Bind Off

SC-Single Crochet

SL ST-Slip Stitch

This pattern is to help understand the basics of Tunisian Crochet. Tunisian Crochet combines regular crochet with many aspects of knitting, giving different textures and effects to your work. Your work is always facing you, and Tunisian Crochet is worked with two passes making up a row: a forward pass and a return pass.

The forward pass is to pick up stitches across, and the return pass is to set up a base for the next row to make stitches from. A return pass is worked almost always the same as in this pattern for every pattern, unless otherwise stated.

You will always skip the very first vertical bar when working Tunisian Crochet, unless a pattern states otherwise (usually for certain stitches).  Keeping your first loop tight will help make for a neater edge, so watch your tension at the beginning of a row.

Tension is key-keeping your work tighter in certain spots, like at the beginning and end row stitches, helps keep your sides neater, but tension should be less on the beginning chain and when working the bind off row, to help prevent curling edges.

To start in Tunisian crochet, you will need to make a foundation row. You will do this by starting with a chain, and picking up loops across the chain (I like to go thru the back loops, to give a neater edge), then working a return pass. This will give you the vertical bar setup that you will work into for Tunisian Crochet.

When ending a pattern in Tunisian Crochet, you will have to work a bind off row. It is very similar to knitting in this regard; usually you will bind off in the stitch you have been working with. I’ll explain exactly how to do so at the end of the pattern.

The Pattern:

To start, ch 30(Be sure not to make this too tightly).

Now, make a foundation row: insert hook into the back hump of the second ch from hook, yo and pull up a loop. Repeat this across the ch-you should have 30 loops on your hook.

Then, work a return pass: Yo, pull thru one loop on hook, [yo and pull thru two loops on hook] repeat [ ] across. This will give you 30 vertical bars across.

You can now start your rows!

Row 1: You will work TSS across for the forward pass. To do a TSS, insert hook into the second vertical bar from right to left, yo and pull up a loop. Repeat this across the row in each vertical bar to the last vertical bar; TKS in last set of vertical bars. To do this, insert hook from front to back of vertical bars, yo and pull up a loop. Doing a TKS at the end will help give your side a neater edge.

Work a return pass as before: yo and pull thru one loop, [yo and pull thru two loops] repeat [ ] across.

Rows 2-25: Repeat Row 1

Row 26: Work a bind off row: Tss in second stitch-you have two loops on the hook. Now pull that second loop thru the first one; one stitch bound off!

Work in this fashion across [tss in next stitch, pull thru one loop] to the last stitch, tks in last stitch, pull thru one loop.

You can leave the cloth like this, and break your yarn and fasten off here, or you can do a single crochet border around. I like to do this to prevent curling and give my cloth a nicer finish.

To do a sc border, do not break your yarn. You’ll work down the left side, across the bottom, up the right side, and across the top.

Ch 1, sc into left side of last tks st, sc down left edge (1 sc into each row end), put 2 sc into the corner, sc across bottom edge (1 sc into each stitch), put 2 sc into corner, sc up right edge (1 sc into each row end), 2 sc into corner, sc across top edge (1 sc into each stitch) to beginning ch 1, sl st to ch 1, break yarn and fasten off.

Weave in ends, and block if necessary.

Recently I did a swap with a fellow Raveler for one of her beautiful tarot bags(You can see & buy them here: http://www.etsy.com/shop/AlwaysTinaJo?ref=pr_shop) I made her a Tunisian neckwarmer for trade, and I wanted to share the pattern. I forgot to take pics before sending, in my excitement, so here’s one of Tina modeling for us!

Artemis

H hook-Tunisian/Afghan hook

WW Yarn-I used Caron Simply Soft, so make sure it’s a similar yarn-simply soft is on the lighter side of WW

Special Stitches:

Esc-Extended Single Crochet: Insert hook into st, yo & pull up a loop, yo & pull thru one loop, yo & pull thru 2 loops.

D-Esc-Double Extended Single Crochet: Just what I’m calling this one-Insert hook into st, yo & pull up a loop,[ yo & pull thru one loop]twice, yo & pull thru 2 loops.

T-Esc-Treble Extended Single Crochet: Again, just what I’m calling this. Insert hook into st, yo & pull up a loop, [yo & pull up a loop] three times, yo & pull thru 2 loops.

 

Ch 25, pick up back humps across ch. Work regular return pass. (YO, pull thru one loop, YO and pull thru 2 loops across)

Next row: tks across, work return pass.

Work until piece measures about 19 in

Next row: Tks to last 6 sts, tks2tog, yo, tks to end. Buttonhole formed. Work return pass.

Work one more row of straight tks.

Then work a bind off row in tks. Break yarn, fasten off.

Edging:

With RS facing, join yarn to bottom corner of work.

Sc in same st as join, sc in next st,* [esc, d-esc] in next st, [d-esc,t-esc] in next st, ch-3, sl st in next st, skip 1 st, sc in next 2 sts*

Repeat *to* across. End with 1 sc in last st.

Break yarn, weave in ends.

I also added an embroidered triple moon symbol. Feel free to add what you want!